Sitting peacefully at the gate of the Adriatic, the Ionian island of Corfu has long been a firm favourite of British holidaymakers. In the 1960s the island was one of the first to attract tourists in large numbers, and the regular influx of visitors during the peak summer months has meant parts of Corfu have seen quite dramatic changes. Some might balk at the thought of the concessions which Corfiotes have made to the culture of sun-seeking tourism, but an identifying characteristic of modern Corfu is, perhaps, how an isolated and completely unspoiled cove can be just a few minutes down the coast from a thronging resort.
Newspaper stories about politicians courting Russian oligarchs on the decks of their yachts should not mislead you into thinking that Corfu is off-limits to those of us with more modest budgets. Although the area around Kassiopi has become synonymous with the Mediterranean jet set, the simple fact that there are so many Corfu hotels competing with one another means prices are below what you might expect. Cheap accommodation on the island ranges from popular backpacker hostels to bargain hotels in cheap and cheerful resorts such as Kavos, long a favourite of the 18-30 crowd.
Planning a holiday to Corfu is made easier by the volume of literary material available, inspired by its landscape and rich and varied past. Take a quick glance around you on the plane to Corfu and it shouldn’t take long to spot a copy of Gerald Durrell’s My Family and Other Animals, or the seminal travel guide Prospero’s Cell, written by his brother Lawrence. Lawrence describes Corfu as a “brilliant little speck of an island with waters like the heartbeat of the world itself.”
Here’s a short guide to some of the main things to see and do in Corfu, as well as a few tips to help you save a bit of money while you’re there:
Corfu Town
On the eastern coast, Corfu Town is the island’s capital and home to many of its main attractions. From the narrow alleys of the Old Town, you can watch the freighters, cruise ships and ferries jostling for space in the busy quays below. The town is overlooked by both the Old and New Fort – Byzantine and Venetian, respectively – both of which survived WWII largely intact. Beneath the walls of the New Fort is the old morning market, where locals and tourists gather to inspect the morning’s catch and the best of the islands produce.
Mrytiotissa
One of the best beaches on the island, Myrtiotissa become something of a pilgrimage site with Lawrence Durrell fans, who are attracted to its white sands by his description of it as “perhaps the loveliest beach in the world.” Be warned, however, since Mrytiotissa is also a favourite of nudists.
Kalami
A rocky cove on the northeastern shore of Corfu, where the Durrell family lived before the outbreak of WWII, Kalami is one of the most visited places on the island. If you have some Euros left over at the end of your stay, the excellent seafood restaurant on the first floor of the White House is definitely to be recommended.
Kassiopi
With a reputation for being a bit of a party resort, the village of Kassiopi is a lively and fun place to spend an evening with friends. Many of the tavernas supplement traditional Greek fare with a variety of other, more international dishes. Some of those offering the best value can be found near Kalamiones beach. The area around Kassiopi has been dubbed ‘Kensington-on-Sea, owing to its popularity with well-heeled Brits, but a night out here needn’t necessarily cost the earth.
Agios Gordios
An attractive beach with a number of hotels lining the waterfront, the most notable thing about Agios Gordios is, perhaps, the Pink Palace. This backpacker hostel has become something of an institution with backpackers attracted by its exceptionally cheap rates and brilliant location. That said, offers of rates of 15 Euros a night at Greece hotels are becoming an increasingly common sight on travel websites these days.
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